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How to Sew Spandex Rouleau Straps

I made a video! It’s the first in a series of short videos on sewing tips for working with stretch fabrics when you’re sewing swimsuits. This one covers making rouleau straps out of spandex fabric.
You can use the technique for the 8101 halterneck swimsuit pattern for the halter neck straps and hip ties. You can also use them for bikini bottoms like in the tutorial I wrote for Sew Indie Month 2015 on Waffle patterns blog, or on any active wear bra tops.
Making these videos was a fun experiment that we filmed at Workroom Social’s studio where I teach classes. We filmed these back in August on what felt like one of the hottest days of the year, so I was very happy when Jennifer rewarded me with a glass of bubbly at the end of filming. I will do almost anything if there’s a glass of bubbly in sight!

I’m not used to being in front of the camera, it’s a very odd sensation and I now have a lot of appreciation for people who come across super normal on film!
Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and let me know in the comments below if there’s other topics you’d like to see me cover in future.

Making a Slot for Removable Swim Cups

I received an email from a customer that reminded me of another option for the cups of a swimsuit! So I thought I would share it here as well.
A lot of RTW swimwear and activewear garments are created so that foam cups are removable from the garment. It’s a practical application for many reasons, including reducing sewing time in production as you don’t have an extra step of securing the cups into the garment. From a wear perspective, depending on the quality of the foam they can degrade quicker than the garment itself and also personal preference of the wearer – some of us just don’t want the foam cups! Personally I’ve had some mixed experiences with free floating cups in cami-top style sports bras, where they migrated across my chest during a yoga class. The visual result was highly amusing – I had one perky and one floppy boob!
Back to the cup lining alteration, below is an example of the 8101 swimsuit pattern from one of the original prototypes. I was trying out different options including a partial cup lining to allow for easy insertion and removal of swim cups.Maison Fleur 8101 Cup Lining Prototype
You can see that the lining is cut shorter by about 3-4cm’s than the outer cup, with the top edge left raw and loose leaving only the sides and bottom edge of the cup sewn to the rest of the swimsuit. To recreate this opening, just cut across the top of the cup lining pattern piece, parallel tot he top edge.
That small gap (where the pen is) is just wide enough to roll up and slot in a swim cup, but not too big that it’ll slip out when you’re busy with practicing your latest swim choreography down at the pool.

I almost want to say I’m sorry for finding this gif…. but i’m not.

I’ve seen some low-impact sports bras that have the gap on the lower outer edge instead, so if you want to retain the clean finish around the top edge and cover the strap ends you could just cut out a small wedge on the lower outer corner instead.
In the end I decided to go for a full cup lining for the pattern as when we’re sewing for ourselves it’s easier to cut away from a pattern piece that the fudge around and recreate a shape, and also a full lining creates a cleaner finish on the inside.

8101 Swimsuit Alternations Part 3 – Bra Bands and Straps

This post is dedicated to some ways you can alter the upper half of the 8101 swimsuit. If you prefer adjustable straps instead of a halter-neck ties and how to make the bikini a full band and adding closures at the back.
Adding a Full Back Band to the Bikini Top
I recently made the bikini version for a client and she requested a full back band with a closure for the top. So i’ll use this as an example for how to make the changes. First lets look at creating just a full back band:
The pattern is made with a -10% negative, which means it is 90% of the total body circumference measurement.
I took her under-bust measurement 96.5cm (38″), and calculate 90% of that: 96.5 X 0.9 = 86.8cm. This means the total circumference of the bra band will need to be 86.8 cm. I measured the bra band pattern piece that I used according to her size and then added onto each end the additional amount required. If you want just a bandeau style back, you can then add your seam allowance of 1cm (3/8″) and sew the CB closed.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
If you don’t want a CB seam, then you can separate the front of the bra band and create one back band. Measure about 2.5cm (1″) from the top point of the outer cup edge and draw a line down to the lower edge at a very shallow angle inwards. Maison Fleur 8101 hacksThen join the CB line together smoothing out join lines. Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the new side seams! If you create a separate piece for the front of the bra band, you can also underline this with power mesh to add additional strength and support under the cups.
Adding a Closure to the Full Back Band
To add in a closure you’ll need to measure the width of the closure – in my case it was a G-hook just shy of 2cm (3/4″) wide. I then narrowed the width of the centre back to that size and added seam allowance. I would recommend shortening it by taking away from the top edge of the centre back and blending to the high point at the side seam as this gives the best balance and distribution of stretch to the fabric.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
Remember that the seam allowance will need to be longer to accommodate going through and sewing in the closure and a loop for it on the other side. I used 2cm (3/4″) seam allowance.
I chose to place a G-hook closure on the same side as bra hooks, as women are used to hooking at the back in the same manner. So that means if you’re looking at the bra band flat, right side up, the closure is on the left and the loop is on the right.
You could also add a G-hook or other swimsuit closure to Version 2 of the swimsuit, if you want the one-piece with a low cut back, but like having some support around the back of the chest.
Adjustable ‘straight’ straps
If you’re not too keen on having a halter-neck here are the steps you can take to make them into adjustable straps that are more akin to a standard bra. You’ll want to do these steps before sewing the straps onto the cups.
You’ll need: two sets of bra rings and sliders, wide enough to accommodate the width of the two neck straps, something that’s at a minimum around 1.5 cm (5/8″) size would work.
For each cup have one rouleaux strap 20″ long. Slide a ring through the strap, then sew the two raw ends of this rouleaux strap to the cup as per the instructions.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
For the adjustable strap at the back you’ll need two straps, around 33-38cm (13-15″) long. They’re final width will be as much as the ring and sliders allows.  For this example that width is 1.5cm (5/8″). Cut two rectangles 33cm X (1.5cm + seam allowance).Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch it down with a zig-zag.
Then feed one end through ring attached to the front rouleaux straps (1), then through the middle of the slider, fold the end down and stitch (2). Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
Take the other end and feed it through the ring (3) – which has the front straps. Then feed that end through the slider (4).
Sew this remaining raw end to the top back edge of the swimsuit.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
You’ll want to check you’re preferred placement on the back, but a good rule of thumb is 8-9cm (3 1/2 – 4″) from the CB. Then you’re done!
 

8101 Alterations Part 2 – Basic Fit Changes

Today, I thought we could look into some basic pattern alterations for fitting the 8101 swimsuit.

Lengthening or Shortening the Body

For versions 1 & 2, the simplest way to alter the bodice length is to take the bodice pieces and divide it into 3. Then cut along the creases and then spread or overlap by as much as you need to.Maison Fleur 8101 hacksFor version 3, the bikini, take the bottoms and divide it in half, the cut and spread/overlap.

Smaller Cups

The pattern comes with 3 cup sizes started at a B/C and going upwards. I received a couple of questions about how to alter the cup size for smaller cup size range.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
Take the B/C cup and lining pattern pieces in your size. Find the bust apex by drawing in the stitching lines on the cup lining pattern piece and measuring 1cm (3/8″) up from that point. Then find the mid-points of the three long edges and join them to bust apex – which is 1cm (3/8″) – cut and slash along those lines.

Additional Cup Support

Whilst on the topic of cups, some of you may want to add a little more ‘oomph’ in that area, either to create a smoother breast shape or have some additional strentgh to support the breast, especially if you’re on the larger end of the cup sizes.
If you have swim cup inserts (something like these) you can slot them in between the lining and outer fabric before basting the two together, free floating inside the cup. If you want them to stay put, you can sew the cup to the wrong side of the lining, with a zig zag stitch that follows the perimeter of the foam cup.
Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
If you have yardage of foam, then you can use the lining pattern piece to cut the foam, trimming away the 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the sides and the top, sew the dart and place that in between the lining and the outer fabric, and will be sewn into place when you turn the elastic and topstitch it down.
There’s some great tutorials already out there in the wilds of the internetz including a round-up of information for sewing swimsuits from a ‘Swimalong’ that happened back in 2013, so I won’t be re-inventing the wheel on this one. Check out this post on how to sew foam into shape, and this post on how to sew the swim cups to the lining.
I made a bikini top with this pattern for a client with a DD cup, so I used a swim cup inserts to give some defined shaping to the cup and also added a layer of power mesh as an under lining on the cup and front portion of the bra band. I decided to go for a power-bar style shape to keep the breast shape projecting forwards and inwards rather than spreading outwards – it worked a treat!Maison Fleur 8101 Hacks
 

Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut

The swimsuit comes with a low cut leg and full butt coverage, but if you want to show a little more cheek you can raise line and have a more contemporary cut.
To start, mark the vertical stitching lines 1.5cm (5/8″) for the side seam and fold the ‘flaps’ under for the time being, it will make the drafting of the leg opening much easier.8101 alterations post-07

You’ll want to raise the side seam from the bottom edge, about 5cm (2″) or you can measure any of your bathers that has a cut you like and use that. Mark that off on both the front and the back.
On the Front leg opening redraft the leg opening in a smooth, shallow curve. Sometimes I like to do this free-hand to get a feel for the curve then finalise it with a curved ruler.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
On the back leg hole find the midway point and measure in 5cm (2″), then draft in a new leg opening from the side seam to the crotch passing through the mid-way mark.
Just to note that this will affect the shape of the crotch curve, so you’ll likely be shaving off the corners.Maison Fleur 8101 hacks
The last step is to true the side seams together and make sure they blend smoothly together.
This pineapple bikini has a higher cut leg at the sides and when the side seams are scrunched it gives a more modern shape.Maison Fleur 8101 high leg bikini pineapple
Alrighty, that’s it for today, the last installment will cover converting the bra band and straps!

8101 Swimsuit Alterations Part 1 – Style Changes

I know you lot are a creative bunch and I can’t wait to see some of your own amazing swimsuits!
In the mean time, part 1 is focusing on a couple of extra style changes you might like to make. Jen (Grainline Studio) pointed out some lovely Madewell swimsuits that have a similar silhouette and I saw they did some nifty strap options on the back. I think it would look great on Version 2 with the low cut back, so here’s some how-to’s for playing around with strap options!

Criss Cross Straps on a Low Back

Here’s some swimsuit backs to give you inspiration on how to play around with the straps.Maison Fleur 8101 swimsuit inspo

Source from top right, clockwise: Asos, Madewell, Kooj

To recreate this look, make longer straps for the neck ties, around 30-35″ should be enough to go across the back, but to be on the safe side you can sew the straps the full cross-wise length of your fabric & trim after you’ve tried it on.
You’ll want to sew up two small rouleaux straps, each about 2cm (3/4″) long and fold them in half to make loops. Sew these into the sides, just below the seam where the cups join the bodice. To recreate the Kooj back, take the back back from Version 2 and remove 2.5 cm (1″) from the centre back. Then follow the pattern instructions for finishing the ends of the bikini band in version 3.
Tune in for the next post which will go into some basic fit changes.