Category: Techniques

September 14, 2015

How to Sew Spandex Rouleau Straps

I made a video! It’s the first in a series of short videos on sewing tips for working with stretch fabrics when you’re sewing swimsuits. This one covers making rouleau straps out of spandex fabric.
You can use the technique for the 8101 halterneck swimsuit pattern for the halter neck straps and hip ties. You can also use them for bikini bottoms like in the tutorial I wrote for Sew Indie Month 2015 on Waffle patterns blog, or on any active wear bra tops.
Making these videos was a fun experiment that we filmed at Workroom Social’s studio where I teach classes. We filmed these back in August on what felt like one of the hottest days of the year, so I was very happy when Jennifer rewarded me with a glass of bubbly at the end of filming. I will do almost anything if there’s a glass of bubbly in sight!

I’m not used to being in front of the camera, it’s a very odd sensation and I now have a lot of appreciation for people who come across super normal on film!
Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and let me know in the comments below if there’s other topics you’d like to see me cover in future.

July 7, 2015

Making a Slot for Removable Swim Cups

I received an email from a customer that reminded me of another option for the cups of a swimsuit! So I thought I would share it here as well.
A lot of RTW swimwear and activewear garments are created so that foam cups are removable from the garment. It’s a practical application for many reasons, including reducing sewing time in production as you don’t have an extra step of securing the cups into the garment. From a wear perspective, depending on the quality of the foam they can degrade quicker than the garment itself and also personal preference of the wearer – some of us just don’t want the foam cups! Personally I’ve had some mixed experiences with free floating cups in cami-top style sports bras, where they migrated across my chest during a yoga class. The visual result was highly amusing – I had one perky and one floppy boob!
Back to the cup lining alteration, below is an example of the 8101 swimsuit pattern from one of the original prototypes. I was trying out different options including a partial cup lining to allow for easy insertion and removal of swim cups.
You can see that the lining is cut shorter by about 3-4cm’s than the outer cup, with the top edge left raw and loose leaving only the sides and bottom edge of the cup sewn to the rest of the swimsuit. To recreate this opening, just cut across the top of the cup lining pattern piece, parallel tot he top edge.
That small gap (where the pen is) is just wide enough to roll up and slot in a swim cup, but not too big that it’ll slip out when you’re busy with practicing your latest swim choreography down at the pool.

I almost want to say I’m sorry for finding this gif…. but i’m not.

I’ve seen some low-impact sports bras that have the gap on the lower outer edge instead, so if you want to retain the clean finish around the top edge and cover the strap ends you could just cut out a small wedge on the lower outer corner instead.
In the end I decided to go for a full cup lining for the pattern as when we’re sewing for ourselves it’s easier to cut away from a pattern piece that the fudge around and recreate a shape, and also a full lining creates a cleaner finish on the inside.

June 30, 2015

8101 Swimsuit Alternations Part 3 – Bra Bands and Straps

This post is dedicated to some ways you can alter the upper half of the 8101 swimsuit. If you prefer adjustable straps instead of a halter-neck ties and how to make the bikini a full band and adding closures at the back.
Adding a Full Back Band to the Bikini Top
I recently made the bikini version for a client and she requested a full back band with a closure for the top. So i’ll use this as an example for how to make the changes. First lets look at creating just a full back band:
The pattern is made with a -10% negative, which means it is 90% of the total body circumference measurement.
I took her under-bust measurement 96.5cm (38″), and calculate 90% of that: 96.5 X 0.9 = 86.8cm. This means the total circumference of the bra band will need to be 86.8 cm. I measured the bra band pattern piece that I used according to her size and then added onto each end the additional amount required. If you want just a bandeau style back, you can then add your seam allowance of 1cm (3/8″) and sew the CB closed.
If you don’t want a CB seam, then you can separate the front of the bra band and create one back band. Measure about 2.5cm (1″) from the top point of the outer cup edge and draw a line down to the lower edge at a very shallow angle inwards. Then join the CB line together smoothing out join lines. Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the new side seams! If you create a separate piece for the front of the bra band, you can also underline this with power mesh to add additional strength and support under the cups.
Adding a Closure to the Full Back Band
To add in a closure you’ll need to measure the width of the closure – in my case it was a G-hook just shy of 2cm (3/4″) wide. I then narrowed the width of the centre back to that size and added seam allowance. I would recommend shortening it by taking away from the top edge of the centre back and blending to the high point at the side seam as this gives the best balance and distribution of stretch to the fabric.
Remember that the seam allowance will need to be longer to accommodate going through and sewing in the closure and a loop for it on the other side. I used 2cm (3/4″) seam allowance.
I chose to place a G-hook closure on the same side as bra hooks, as women are used to hooking at the back in the same manner. So that means if you’re looking at the bra band flat, right side up, the closure is on the left and the loop is on the right.
You could also add a G-hook or other swimsuit closure to Version 2 of the swimsuit, if you want the one-piece with a low cut back, but like having some support around the back of the chest.
Adjustable ‘straight’ straps
If you’re not too keen on having a halter-neck here are the steps you can take to make them into adjustable straps that are more akin to a standard bra. You’ll want to do these steps before sewing the straps onto the cups.
You’ll need: two sets of bra rings and sliders, wide enough to accommodate the width of the two neck straps, something that’s at a minimum around 1.5 cm (5/8″) size would work.
For each cup have one rouleaux strap 20″ long. Slide a ring through the strap, then sew the two raw ends of this rouleaux strap to the cup as per the instructions.
For the adjustable strap at the back you’ll need two straps, around 33-38cm (13-15″) long. They’re final width will be as much as the ring and sliders allows. For this example that width is 1.5cm (5/8″). Cut two rectangles 33cm X (1.5cm + seam allowance).
Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch it down with a zig-zag.
Then feed one end through ring attached to the front rouleaux straps (1), then through the middle of the slider, fold the end down and stitch (2).
Take the other end and feed it through the ring (3) – which has the front straps. Then feed that end through the slider (4).
Sew this remaining raw end to the top back edge of the swimsuit.
You’ll want to check you’re preferred placement on the back, but a good rule of thumb is 8-9cm (3 1/2 – 4″) from the CB. Then you’re done!

June 25, 2015

8101 Alterations Part 2 – Basic Fit Changes

Today, I thought we could look into some basic pattern alterations for fitting the 8101 swimsuit.

Lengthening or Shortening the Body

For versions 1 & 2, the simplest way to alter the bodice length is to take the bodice pieces and divide it into 3. Then cut along the creases and then spread or overlap by as much as you need to.For version 3, the bikini, take the bottoms and divide it in half, the cut and spread/overlap.

Smaller Cups

The pattern comes with 3 cup sizes started at a B/C and going upwards. I received a couple of questions about how to alter the cup size for smaller cup size range.
Take the B/C cup and lining pattern pieces in your size. Find the bust apex by drawing in the stitching lines on the cup lining pattern piece and measuring 1cm (3/8″) up from that point. Then find the mid-points of the three long edges and join them to bust apex – which is 1cm (3/8″) – cut and slash along those lines.

Additional Cup Support

Whilst on the topic of cups, some of you may want to add a little more ‘oomph’ in that area, either to create a smoother breast shape or have some additional strentgh to support the breast, especially if you’re on the larger end of the cup sizes.
If you have swim cup inserts (something like these) you can slot them in between the lining and outer fabric before basting the two together, free floating inside the cup. If you want them to stay put, you can sew the cup to the wrong side of the lining, with a zig zag stitch that follows the perimeter of the foam cup.

If you have yardage of foam, then you can use the lining pattern piece to cut the foam, trimming away the 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the sides and the top, sew the dart and place that in between the lining and the outer fabric, and will be sewn into place when you turn the elastic and topstitch it down.
There’s some great tutorials already out there in the wilds of the internetz including a round-up of information for sewing swimsuits from a ‘Swimalong’ that happened back in 2013, so I won’t be re-inventing the wheel on this one. Check out this post on how to sew foam into shape, and this post on how to sew the swim cups to the lining.
I made a bikini top with this pattern for a client with a DD cup, so I used a swim cup inserts to give some defined shaping to the cup and also added a layer of power mesh as an under lining on the cup and front portion of the bra band. I decided to go for a power-bar style shape to keep the breast shape projecting forwards and inwards rather than spreading outwards – it worked a treat!

Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut

The swimsuit comes with a low cut leg and full butt coverage, but if you want to show a little more cheek you can raise line and have a more contemporary cut.
To start, mark the vertical stitching lines 1.5cm (5/8″) for the side seam and fold the ‘flaps’ under for the time being, it will make the drafting of the leg opening much easier.

You’ll want to raise the side seam from the bottom edge, about 5cm (2″) or you can measure any of your bathers that has a cut you like and use that. Mark that off on both the front and the back.
On the Front leg opening redraft the leg opening in a smooth, shallow curve. Sometimes I like to do this free-hand to get a feel for the curve then finalise it with a curved ruler.
On the back leg hole find the midway point and measure in 5cm (2″), then draft in a new leg opening from the side seam to the crotch passing through the mid-way mark.
Just to note that this will affect the shape of the crotch curve, so you’ll likely be shaving off the corners.
The last step is to true the side seams together and make sure they blend smoothly together.
This pineapple bikini has a higher cut leg at the sides and when the side seams are scrunched it gives a more modern shape.
Alrighty, that’s it for today, the last installment will cover converting the bra band and straps!

May 26, 2015

Pattern Alterations for 6101 Skirt Pt.2

Here’s part two to last weeks post on pattern alterations to the 6101 skirt. It’s dedicated to adding length after a question I got through Instagram. The skirt is designed to fall above the knee, but sometimes you just want a little more coverage (getting caught over a windy subway grate is a good reason for me!). There’s a few different ways you can approach lengthening the skirt, depending on how you want it to look and also how much effort you want to put into it 😉

Adding Length

The first decision is where you want to add length: Do you want to keep the hip and front panels the same size and just increase the length of the rest of the skirt? or do you want to extend the whole silhouette?
For the first option, mark halfway down the centre front seam and the side seam. Then fold the pattern piece in half vertically so the side seam meets the centre front seam, mark the middle point on that creased line. Now join the three marks together in one horizontal line (it won’t be straight) and cut.
Spread the pieces down by however much length you want to add and secure in place. To balance the length with the volume of the flare; take the top part of the pattern piece, draw a line that extends down from the side seam. On the lower panel piece, slash along the middle crease line and spread that piece out so it fits against the continuing side seam line. Repeat the same process for the back pattern pieces. Now you’re ready to cut and sew.
If you want to lengthen the whole skirt proportionately, start by marking the halfway point on the side front pattern piece – the easiest way to do this is by folding it in half vertically so the top and bottom edges meet. Then mark it’s corresponding depth onto the centre front panel. Slash along this line and spread to extend the length. I would personally only increase this section by 1/3 of the total desired increase as the side panel are designed to fit against the body stopping just above hips/widest point of the body. Then repeat the process I described above for increasing the length of the lower skirt, but only extending it by the remaining 2/3 of your total increase.
You could get really fancy and add an additional slash line that cuts across the top portion of the lower panel and the lower portion of the centre front panel. This would extend the length of the front panel proportionately along with the length of the lower pieces. This change entails more work as you need to ensure you re-draft nice smooth curves and ensure the corresponding seam lengths match at that point too.
If you want to shorten it then you would follow the same slash and spread methods i’ve described above, but instead of extending everything down, you would overlap the pieces by the necessary amount.
Don’t forget to lengthen your lining pieces as well! The simplest way is by folding the pattern piece into thirds horizontally and slash and spread at the two points.
Make sure you keep the height of the side seam slits the same so that you don’t restrict room for movement, and if you’re lengthening the skirt substantially you may want to make french tacks to loosely hold the lining to the skirt on the inside so you don’t have too much separation.
So that’s some of the techniques you can try out.

Lengthening or Shortening the Body

Smaller Cups

Additional Cup Support

Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut

Adding Length

Smaller Cups