Author: MaisonFleurPatterns

September 1, 2015

Sew Independent – Bundle 2 has arrived!

Bundle two of Sewing Indie Month (SIM) is here! It marks the start of a month-long celebration of indie sewing patterns from a bunch of us designers that have collaborated to bring you a lot of sewing fun!
The pattern bundle 2 itself runs from Tuesday September 1st through Thursday September 10th, but the whole of September is filled with a tonne of stuff: There will be blog posts, tutorials and interviews galore, including a sewalong contest stuffed with epic prizes! So you can join in on the contest while supporting small women-owned businesses and raising money for charity.
Ah yes, the charity! Some of you probably just want to know about the sewing, but humour me for a minute, it’s for amazing and worthwhile causes: 20% of bundle proceeds will be donated to Women for Women, which helps women dealing with violence, marginalization, and poverty due to war and conflict.

In countries affected by conflict and war, Women for Women International supports the most marginalized women to earn and save money, improve health and well-being, influence decisions in their home and community, and connect to networks for support. By utilizing skills, knowledge, and resources, she is able to create sustainable change for herself, her family, and community.
Back to the sewing. There’s some brand new patterns pattern releases happening exclusively in this bundle: The Kinga Skirt by Kate & Rose and the April 1962 Coat by SomaPatterns are brand new patterns that are being released through the bundle.

Now I think that there’s been more than enough to digest for today, but I’ll be back tomorrow with full details on the sewing contest and the insane amount of prizes to be won!
Don’t forget you can find out more on the pattern bundle at Sewing Indie Month HQ.

As the lovely Cilla Black would say at the end of Blind Date – Ta-ra for now!

August 9, 2015

Sew Independent 2015 – Bundle 1

I’m excited to tell you about Sew Independent 2015! But what the hell, you ask, is Sew Indie 15?

Sewing Indie Month (SIM) is a month-long celebration of indie sewing patterns where designers collaborate to bring you fun blog posts and informative tutorials. This year SIM will take place in September. It’s accompanied by a sewalong contest with fantastic prizes. Since the patterns in the SIM Bundle 1 are mostly wovens, this sale gives you time to make muslins before the contest begins in September while supporting small women-owned businesses and raising money for charity.

I will be participating this year with the #6101 fit and flare skirt in Bundle 2 that will be available in September. But for now let’s talk about Bundle 1 that’s available now until this Wednesday 12th August.
Here’s the list & links of designers you’ll find in Bundle 1, including patterns that have been pre-released just for Sew Indie Month:

$25: Sutton Blouse by True Bias; Cressida Skirt by Jennifer Lauren Vintage Patterns; Sugar Plum Dress by Lolita Patterns; Mississippi Ave Dress & Top by Sew House Seven; Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It

$32: Cookie Blouson by Waffle Patterns; Bonnell Dress by Dixie DIY

$38: Melissa Dress, Blouse & Skirt by Muse Patterns; The NEW Saltbox Top by Blueprints for Sewing; The NEW Sorrel Dress & Top by Seamster Sewing Patterns

With Sew Indie 2015 pattern bundle sales, you get to decide how much you pay, starting with a minimum of $25. Paying the minimum will get you a great wardrobe building pack of 5 patterns. The more you pay though, the more patterns you’ll get, with the full bundle of 10 patterns for as little as $38! That works out to $3.80 per pattern!20% of proceeds raised during SIM 2015 go toward charity that all of the featured designers chose in a vote. So for Bundle 1 we decided that proceeds will go to the International Folk Art Alliance, which helps artisans around the world gain access to business education and exhibition opportunities so they can create sustainable livelihoods and preserve their traditional crafts.
You can choose to pay over the minimums, which means you’ll be helping artisans from around the world create sustainable livelihoods through education and by giving them access to exhibition opportunities. Through the International Folk Art Alliance’s efforts, artists from around the world have been able to build schools and feed their local villages, find shelter from abuse, and recover their ability to support themselves and their families after the destruction of war.With your generosity you’ll get to help makers from all around the world.
For more details on Sew Indie ’15 and on Bundle 1 (finishes August 12th), check out SewIndependent now.

July 7, 2015

Making a Slot for Removable Swim Cups

I received an email from a customer that reminded me of another option for the cups of a swimsuit! So I thought I would share it here as well.
A lot of RTW swimwear and activewear garments are created so that foam cups are removable from the garment. It’s a practical application for many reasons, including reducing sewing time in production as you don’t have an extra step of securing the cups into the garment. From a wear perspective, depending on the quality of the foam they can degrade quicker than the garment itself and also personal preference of the wearer – some of us just don’t want the foam cups! Personally I’ve had some mixed experiences with free floating cups in cami-top style sports bras, where they migrated across my chest during a yoga class. The visual result was highly amusing – I had one perky and one floppy boob!
Back to the cup lining alteration, below is an example of the 8101 swimsuit pattern from one of the original prototypes. I was trying out different options including a partial cup lining to allow for easy insertion and removal of swim cups.
You can see that the lining is cut shorter by about 3-4cm’s than the outer cup, with the top edge left raw and loose leaving only the sides and bottom edge of the cup sewn to the rest of the swimsuit. To recreate this opening, just cut across the top of the cup lining pattern piece, parallel tot he top edge.
That small gap (where the pen is) is just wide enough to roll up and slot in a swim cup, but not too big that it’ll slip out when you’re busy with practicing your latest swim choreography down at the pool.

I almost want to say I’m sorry for finding this gif…. but i’m not.

I’ve seen some low-impact sports bras that have the gap on the lower outer edge instead, so if you want to retain the clean finish around the top edge and cover the strap ends you could just cut out a small wedge on the lower outer corner instead.
In the end I decided to go for a full cup lining for the pattern as when we’re sewing for ourselves it’s easier to cut away from a pattern piece that the fudge around and recreate a shape, and also a full lining creates a cleaner finish on the inside.

June 30, 2015

8101 Swimsuit Alternations Part 3 – Bra Bands and Straps

This post is dedicated to some ways you can alter the upper half of the 8101 swimsuit. If you prefer adjustable straps instead of a halter-neck ties and how to make the bikini a full band and adding closures at the back.
Adding a Full Back Band to the Bikini Top
I recently made the bikini version for a client and she requested a full back band with a closure for the top. So i’ll use this as an example for how to make the changes. First lets look at creating just a full back band:
The pattern is made with a -10% negative, which means it is 90% of the total body circumference measurement.
I took her under-bust measurement 96.5cm (38″), and calculate 90% of that: 96.5 X 0.9 = 86.8cm. This means the total circumference of the bra band will need to be 86.8 cm. I measured the bra band pattern piece that I used according to her size and then added onto each end the additional amount required. If you want just a bandeau style back, you can then add your seam allowance of 1cm (3/8″) and sew the CB closed.
If you don’t want a CB seam, then you can separate the front of the bra band and create one back band. Measure about 2.5cm (1″) from the top point of the outer cup edge and draw a line down to the lower edge at a very shallow angle inwards. Then join the CB line together smoothing out join lines. Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the new side seams! If you create a separate piece for the front of the bra band, you can also underline this with power mesh to add additional strength and support under the cups.
Adding a Closure to the Full Back Band
To add in a closure you’ll need to measure the width of the closure – in my case it was a G-hook just shy of 2cm (3/4″) wide. I then narrowed the width of the centre back to that size and added seam allowance. I would recommend shortening it by taking away from the top edge of the centre back and blending to the high point at the side seam as this gives the best balance and distribution of stretch to the fabric.
Remember that the seam allowance will need to be longer to accommodate going through and sewing in the closure and a loop for it on the other side. I used 2cm (3/4″) seam allowance.
I chose to place a G-hook closure on the same side as bra hooks, as women are used to hooking at the back in the same manner. So that means if you’re looking at the bra band flat, right side up, the closure is on the left and the loop is on the right.
You could also add a G-hook or other swimsuit closure to Version 2 of the swimsuit, if you want the one-piece with a low cut back, but like having some support around the back of the chest.
Adjustable ‘straight’ straps
If you’re not too keen on having a halter-neck here are the steps you can take to make them into adjustable straps that are more akin to a standard bra. You’ll want to do these steps before sewing the straps onto the cups.
You’ll need: two sets of bra rings and sliders, wide enough to accommodate the width of the two neck straps, something that’s at a minimum around 1.5 cm (5/8″) size would work.
For each cup have one rouleaux strap 20″ long. Slide a ring through the strap, then sew the two raw ends of this rouleaux strap to the cup as per the instructions.
For the adjustable strap at the back you’ll need two straps, around 33-38cm (13-15″) long. They’re final width will be as much as the ring and sliders allows. For this example that width is 1.5cm (5/8″). Cut two rectangles 33cm X (1.5cm + seam allowance).
Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch it down with a zig-zag.
Then feed one end through ring attached to the front rouleaux straps (1), then through the middle of the slider, fold the end down and stitch (2).
Take the other end and feed it through the ring (3) – which has the front straps. Then feed that end through the slider (4).
Sew this remaining raw end to the top back edge of the swimsuit.
You’ll want to check you’re preferred placement on the back, but a good rule of thumb is 8-9cm (3 1/2 – 4″) from the CB. Then you’re done!

June 25, 2015

8101 Alterations Part 2 – Basic Fit Changes

Today, I thought we could look into some basic pattern alterations for fitting the 8101 swimsuit.

Lengthening or Shortening the Body

For versions 1 & 2, the simplest way to alter the bodice length is to take the bodice pieces and divide it into 3. Then cut along the creases and then spread or overlap by as much as you need to.For version 3, the bikini, take the bottoms and divide it in half, the cut and spread/overlap.

Smaller Cups

The pattern comes with 3 cup sizes started at a B/C and going upwards. I received a couple of questions about how to alter the cup size for smaller cup size range.
Take the B/C cup and lining pattern pieces in your size. Find the bust apex by drawing in the stitching lines on the cup lining pattern piece and measuring 1cm (3/8″) up from that point. Then find the mid-points of the three long edges and join them to bust apex – which is 1cm (3/8″) – cut and slash along those lines.

Additional Cup Support

Whilst on the topic of cups, some of you may want to add a little more ‘oomph’ in that area, either to create a smoother breast shape or have some additional strentgh to support the breast, especially if you’re on the larger end of the cup sizes.
If you have swim cup inserts (something like these) you can slot them in between the lining and outer fabric before basting the two together, free floating inside the cup. If you want them to stay put, you can sew the cup to the wrong side of the lining, with a zig zag stitch that follows the perimeter of the foam cup.

If you have yardage of foam, then you can use the lining pattern piece to cut the foam, trimming away the 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the sides and the top, sew the dart and place that in between the lining and the outer fabric, and will be sewn into place when you turn the elastic and topstitch it down.
There’s some great tutorials already out there in the wilds of the internetz including a round-up of information for sewing swimsuits from a ‘Swimalong’ that happened back in 2013, so I won’t be re-inventing the wheel on this one. Check out this post on how to sew foam into shape, and this post on how to sew the swim cups to the lining.
I made a bikini top with this pattern for a client with a DD cup, so I used a swim cup inserts to give some defined shaping to the cup and also added a layer of power mesh as an under lining on the cup and front portion of the bra band. I decided to go for a power-bar style shape to keep the breast shape projecting forwards and inwards rather than spreading outwards – it worked a treat!

Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut

The swimsuit comes with a low cut leg and full butt coverage, but if you want to show a little more cheek you can raise line and have a more contemporary cut.
To start, mark the vertical stitching lines 1.5cm (5/8″) for the side seam and fold the ‘flaps’ under for the time being, it will make the drafting of the leg opening much easier.

You’ll want to raise the side seam from the bottom edge, about 5cm (2″) or you can measure any of your bathers that has a cut you like and use that. Mark that off on both the front and the back.
On the Front leg opening redraft the leg opening in a smooth, shallow curve. Sometimes I like to do this free-hand to get a feel for the curve then finalise it with a curved ruler.
On the back leg hole find the midway point and measure in 5cm (2″), then draft in a new leg opening from the side seam to the crotch passing through the mid-way mark.
Just to note that this will affect the shape of the crotch curve, so you’ll likely be shaving off the corners.
The last step is to true the side seams together and make sure they blend smoothly together.
This pineapple bikini has a higher cut leg at the sides and when the side seams are scrunched it gives a more modern shape.
Alrighty, that’s it for today, the last installment will cover converting the bra band and straps!

Lengthening or Shortening the Body

Smaller Cups

Additional Cup Support

Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut

Smaller Cups